This is the Hudson Valley in NY

This is the Hudson Valley in NY

A resident named Ernie explained to us that the Hudson of his youth was a slum. This was 40 years ago. Now you can find five star restaurants and property values on the move.

“For the times they are a-changin’.” - Bob Dylan

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When I say New York, I’d bet that you’d think of Manhattan. Manhattan is thrilling but that’s not all there is to the empire state. We spent time in Upstate New York and were in awe of its woodlands. There’s a school and museum dedicated to the art of glass making. We found a thriving distillery in the Hudson Valley. There was also some sort of concert that happened in 1969 and the aftershocks of which are still reverberating throughout the place. Franklin Delano Roosevelt was elected for four terms in office as our commander and chief. We had to rewrite the constitution because of him. We’ll cover those things, my next existential crisis and whatever else I can think of in this episode of Leons’ Great Escape. 

The path to the Kaaterskill Falls.

The path to the Kaaterskill Falls.

TIME AND DELIBERATION

When you don’t have a job, you have a lot of time to think. Potentially, you have too much time to think. Impermanence is one of the essential doctrines and part of three marks of existence in Buddhism. The Buddha taught that because no physical or mental object is permanent, desire for or attachment to either causes suffering. I get it but it’s sure challenging to implement. Impermanence is also known as the philosophical problem of change. Other words used to describe impermanence are transient, evanescent, and inconstant. 

I particularly latched on to evanescent, or: soon passing out of sight, memory or existence; quickly fading or disappearing. Whether you’re adrift a seemingly humdrum life that you’d like to change or teetering the incendiary instability of transition, our constant remains time. As an old English proverb once said, “Time and tide waits for no man.”

It wasn’t long ago that I found myself washed out in the mundane. My loved ones helped me muster the courage to jump off a cliff and freefall in a life that is anything but predictable. Our pursuit to find a home while living full time in a motor vehicle without a decisive plan is the exact opposite of my former regimented salaryman life. The garish contrast hasn’t exactly settled my nerves. Just as we discussed time being a constant, I must reflect that I am the constant in my unrest. Even with that truth, I’m still petrified that we won’t pull the ripcord in time to land gracefully. We’ll land and that’s for sure. For all the bluster that I bandy about, you’d almost think that I’m not loving this road trip. To be clear, I wouldn’t trade this experience.

This blog is, among other things, an attempt to slow the dulling of memory of this adventure and I’m happy to report that it’s working. My neurosis aside, we’re pulling together as a family and making strides towards our goals. We are digging deep within to find strengths that were previously unknown. So piss off, Father Time. Let me tell you about Watkins Glen. Actually, no wait… Let me tell you how we got there first. 

CLEVELAND ROCKS

We left Michigan at a furious pace with Cleveland, Ohio in our sights. 231 miles of driving dropped us at a rundown rv park called Willow Lake Park. We only needed a place to park the beast so we could romp around the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. You’ll hear from some that the Hall of Fame is a tourist trap and I refute them. If you have a love for the history of rock or music, then you’ll love this place. They even have instruments at the ready for visitors to play. Be sure to check their event calendar, as they often have live entertainment. We enjoyed our time here and would happily come again and spend another 2 or 3 hours. 

I heart this wall.

I heart this wall.

A long day at the museum of rock will make one hungry so we sampled Skyline Chili. This is a famous establishment in Ohio and I think they’re a bit heavy handed on the cumin. Our bill came out to under $20 bucks so it’s affordable to decide for yourself. There’s also a pretty decent brewery really close to the RnR Hall of Fame called Noble Beast Brewing Co. where we met our new friends, Alli, Matt and their daughter, Aida. I must have been having a real good time because I don’t have any footage of this encounter. Nevertheless, we may meet up with them in Kentucky.



LUCKY LOUIE’S BEER AND WIENERS

You can also pick up some Yuengling next door to Louie’s. D. G. Yuengling & Son is the oldest operating brewing company in America, established in 1829.

You can also pick up some Yuengling next door to Louie’s. D. G. Yuengling & Son is the oldest operating brewing company in America, established in 1829.

The next day we split from Cleveland with New York getting ever closer to us but our stomachs predictably grumbled at the lunch hour. A pitstop in Erie, PA was what transpired. It was a stroke of genius when Lucky Louie’s Beer and Wieners invented the preparation of a hotdog which resembles an octopus. They call it the Octo Dog. Pepper nearly blew a gasket. Candice and I had the Hog Dog and the Breakfast Beard. 

The Hog Dog, as read from the menu, is described as, “bacon, bacon, bacon, pepperoni and cheese sauce.” The Breakfast Beard is a Smith’s andouille sausage and a french toasted bun, fried egg and bacon topped with maple syrup and powdered sugar. PRO TIP: Ask them to add cream cheese. These are habit forming. You’ve been warned. 


THE HUDSON VALLEY

Enough with the preamble -- We spent 10 nights in total in Upstate New York and we could have spent 3 or 4 times that and still had plenty to do. Let’s discuss what the Hudson valley actually is. We’ll go right to the source of truth on this and in this case that’s travelhudsonvalley.com

“Hudson Valley is a 10-county region designated by I LOVE NEW YORK to promote tourism for the area. Counties include Albany, Columbia, Dutchess, Greene, Orange, Putnam, Rensselaer, Rockland, Ulster and Westchester. The Hudson Valley extends 150 miles above the tip of Manhattan north to Albany. Designated as a National Heritage Area, the valley is steeped in history, natural beauty, culture and a burgeoning food and farmer's market scene.”



Whoa! I’ll be the judge, jury and executioner on beauty, culture and food travelhudsonvaley.com! So presumptuous.

Castel Grisch is a member of the Harvest Host program.

Castel Grisch is a member of the Harvest Host program.

Watkins Glen took up 5 of 10 of those evenings. If you find yourself here, then get thee to Castel Grisch and Tobey’s Donut Shop posthaste. 

This area is best for sweeter wines because of the colder climate.

This area is best for sweeter wines because of the colder climate.

Castel Grisch is a winery that was established in 1983 by a Swiss German couple. We enjoyed a tasting there. We also spent the night. They’re a member of the Harvest Host program.

Tobey’s Donut Shop serves made fresh donuts and greasy breakfasts that will keep you going strong for a day of hiking. The staff at Tobey’s are one of a kind and a show all to themselves. They’ll make you feel right at home, especially if your home is regularly chaotic and prone to emotional diatribes. We loved it. 

Making glass used to look something like this.

Making glass used to look something like this.



Watkins Glen is about 40 minutes from Corning and Corning is where you’ll find the Museum of Glass and it’s a spectacle. They offer classes where you can get up close and personal with the art itself. I took a glass blowing class, for $32 bucks, where I blew into a metal tube but that was as far as my physical interaction went. I suppose it wouldn’t be wise or safe for someone with no prior knowledge or experience to wield around 2400 degree molten glass on a five foot rod. It was still amusing and you get to keep the ornament that you participate in the creation of. I bestowed my creation to our aunt Gabby for her 50th birthday and she really dug it. 

At one point in my life I read a book. Enough with the applause. The book in question was titled Masters of Craft and I highly recommend it. Here’s a blurb from the forward:

“In today’s new economy—in which “good” jobs are typically knowledge or technology based—many well-educated and culturally savvy young people are instead choosing to pursue traditionally low-status manual labor occupations as careers. Masters of Craft looks at the renaissance of four such trades: bartending, distilling, barbering, and butchering.”

The Tuthilltown distillery was prominently featured within said book and is also located in the Hudson Valley. For $10 dollars you can get a tasting flight of their goods. For only 2 dollars more you can get that tasting and a tour. I think you know what to do from here. 

If you hadn’t had your fill of spirits, then head over to Mercantile and try their aged Apple Brandy. Unfortunately, you can only purchase a bottle of the unaged product but they’ll make you a mighty fine Old Fashioned with the reserved and you’ll be happy that you made the trip. Once they’ve upped their supply, they’ll be able to part ways with the aged stuff and I’ll be back for that.  

A photo from the base of the first landing of Kaaterskill Falls.

A photo from the base of the first landing of Kaaterskill Falls.

All of this liquor talk is making me want to hike jagged rocks to find a waterfall.

Let’s peruse the Kaaterskill Falls. Kaaterskill is a two-stage waterfall on Spruce Creek in the eastern Catskill Mountains. Candice and I took turns carrying and guiding Pepper down the, at times, treacherously rocky path to see this fantastic fall. After we sweat through all of our clothing, we enjoyed a fine meal and a birthday celebration for our sweet little girl. Pep also spent an hour or so finding the perfect birthday gift at Tinker Toys Too in the town of Woodstock.

Pepper chose a kaleidoscope and drawing device.

Pepper chose a kaleidoscope and drawing device.

You should know that the famous Woodstock concert was actually held on a 600 acre dairy farm in a town called Bethel which is 43 miles southwest of Woodstock. Bethel has a monument that celebrates that famous event and a museum. We didn’t make it out that way but maybe you will? Woodstock, New York has plenty of nods to music, arts and crafts and is a place that you can spend a day or two wandering around.

40 minutes from Woodstock will find you Hyde Park, NY and it is the birthplace of one Franklin D. Roosevelt. It’s also where you’ll find his home and presidential library. 

FDR was responsible for The New Deal. The New Deal was a series of programs, public work projects, financial reforms, and regulations enacted by President Franklin D. Roosevelt in the United States between 1933 and 1936. It responded to needs for re…

FDR was responsible for The New Deal. The New Deal was a series of programs, public work projects, financial reforms, and regulations enacted by President Franklin D. Roosevelt in the United States between 1933 and 1936. It responded to needs for relief, reform, and recovery from the Great Depression

Franklin D. Roosevelt was elected President of the United States four times: 1932, 1936, 1940, and 1944. ... As a result of FDR's unprecedented four terms, the Twenty-second Amendment to the United States Constitution was ratified in 1951, limiting all future presidents to two elected terms.

He was a fighter. At 39 and what seemed like the top of his game he was stricken with Polio and lost the ability to stand or use his legs. Instead of sulking, he bolted into a pair of metal leg braces and invented the Franklin shuffle to make it appear as though he could walk. 

It’s also speculated that his wife, Eleanor, was bisexual and was entangled in a long term love affair with her bodyguard. This is the sort of salaciousness that you’ll find here. 

Drive 5 or 10 minutes from FDR’s place and you’ll see the Culinary Institute of America. The grounds are immaculate and they provide dining options. Additionally, Anthony Bourdain attended here. He was a pretty significant figure. 


WILL WE LIVE HERE?

Let’s talk domicile. Hudson has a median home price of $210,000 according to Trulia. The winters up here are a wonderland but that’s not what we’re looking for. If you have remote work, appreciate nature, and a really cold season, then this could be for you. You’re also a two-to-three hour drive from Manhattan so you can play in the city on occasion. Play is what we consider this beautiful place. We hope to make it back here again but won’t put down roots permanently.

For now -- I’ll continue to ruminate on impermanence, mortality and how to optimize the counter space in the motorhome. Next stop for us will be Cape Cod and I’m super excited. We’re hot on the trail of our new home and enjoy sharing with you our lessons learned and the progress we’re making. 

Massachusetts, you're going to need a fork and your wallet.

Massachusetts, you're going to need a fork and your wallet.

The fog of Iowa and Michigan.

The fog of Iowa and Michigan.